best of spring summer 2011 ad campaigns times three

times one: prada campaign photographed by steven meisel
times two: jil sander campaign photographed by willy vanderperre
times three: lanvin campaign photographed by steven meisel

best of stefano pilati for yves saint laurent fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Pilati's collection brought back the essence of what was
Yves Saint Laurent with a meticulously elegant collection.
The printed pieces is what caught my eye with the prince
of wales checks and the pixelated electric blue graphic in
simple knee high coats or dresses that were quite visually
dramatic.

best of stefano pilati for yves saint laurent fall 2011 shoes times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and www.gorunway.com

Pilati's fall collection for Yves Saint Laurent was simple
and refined- with the exception of the shoes which
were boundlessly embellished and sculpted, in my
opinion the designs represented an art deco and almost
80's influence. Perhaps a little surprising coming from
Stefano.

best of vivienne westwood fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and www.gorunway.com

Vivienne brings to us these twisted characters for her fall
collection- each look represents a character from Westwood's
wild imagination- some masculine, some ornately feminine, some
refined well the list goes on. Westwood's palette of materials,
patterns and colour continue to remain consistent and practical.

best of viktor and rolf fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Viktor and Rolf's fall collection placed emphasis on armours and
structured forms- these pieces in particular leave me speechless. They
almost remind me of an Ernst Haeckel sketch, they are organic but quite
rigidly sculptured at the same time. A visual feast quite realistically - it
should be displayed in a gallery

best of vanessa bruno fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and www.gorunway.com

Vanessa Bruno's fall collection had a Russian influence with
her floor drapping coats with tones of browns, musk and blue
with bold details of stripes or a central graphic or fur lapels. The
head scarves gave the collection a peasant aesthetic restrained and
austere without to much attention drawn to a singular piece.

best of undercover fall 2011 collection times three



images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/


Jun Takahashi's fall 2011 collection for undercover was
simple and understated with refined panelling applied to
knitwear and zipper attachments used to define forms.
The focus was on heavy knitwear and velvets - a
luxurious winter range.

best of tsumori chisato fall 2011 collection times three



images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

 Tsumori Chisato's fall collection was filled with the usual
colourful and eclectic aesthetic that remains her signature.
The pieces that resonate with me are the autumn hue
pieces striped, textured and patchworked to create
a complexity of layers you would never imagine putting
together- her work is like a collage that shes seems to
artistically compose each season.

best of stella mccartney fall 2011 collection times three



images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

 What remains iconic to this collection for me is the
accentuation of the curvaceous hourglass proportions
from the arms to the hips, McCartney texturizes these
minimal crew neck pieces with reflective gold, fine
pleats and leather. It represents a progressive and
futuristic approach to her tailoring unlike her other
collections.

best of stella mccartney fall 2011 bag collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ an www.gorunway.com

Stella McCartney's fall collection of bags is simple and
bold- the plexi glass or perspex clutch is not an innovative
piece as previously explored by Fendi, Mcqueen, or
Charlotte Olympia, however the innovative approach of this
purse lies in its form as previous designers attempt to
maintain the typical appearance of a purse McCartney
chooses to instead use pure forms of prisms and cylinders
without trying to appear to be a bag.

best of sonia rykiel fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

A Sonia Rykiel collection never fails to excite me, the way
the looks are composed and layered are so clever and
practical- this collection we see Rykiel mix miltary cuts with
English argyle and tartans prints, the colours palette is always
refreshing with tones of khaki, indigo, taupe and toffee browns
a 70's revival of colours.

best of marco zanini for rochas fall 2011 collection times three



images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/



Marco Zanini's fall 2011 collection for Rochas transported
me  back to the 60's to designs from the likes of Pierre
Cardin or Cristobal Balenciaga- particularly the coats in
their proportions and volumes and most of all the hats, it
wasn't only the coats that demonstrated a 60's influence but
the shift dresses and A-line skirts.

best of rick owens fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Rick Owens fall collection for 2011 would have to be for me
my favourite of all of his collections with such a glamorously
austere aesthetic with floor draping capes and a subtle palette
of grey, taupe and browns that unite in harmonious outfits. His
details are almost architectural with the keyed in leather
patchwork and heavy single pleats. A practical and wearable
collection from Owens.

best of rick owens boots fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and www.gorunway.com

Rick Owens statement shoes are always are key element
to his collections these wedge boots are dramatic with
its towering uninterrupted wedge platform with gathered
fronts- Owens uses leather in a unique way sculpturing
these unique forms.

best of neil barrett fall 2011 collection times three



images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/




Neil Barrett's masculine coats for fall 2011 are an elegantly
tailored range of coats with sharp angular lapels and flattering
lengths. The details are restrained and refined with the only
embelishment and extravagance being the fur trims- a bold
coat for the winter.

best of thierry mugler fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of style.com and www.gorunway.com

Nicola Formichetti's debut for Mugler was nothing less
than theatrical and dramatic, it maintained the futuristic
vision that gave Mugler his name. The designs were
slim lined and often reflective with a longlined coat
or blazer- incredibly minimal with maximum effect. Almost
a parallel aesthetic to some of Mcqueen's work. A
refreshing comeback and reinvention for the industry.

best of maison martin margiela fall 2011 collection times three



images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Martin Margiela's fall collection focuses on the dress
and explores a progressive construction of the typical
piece by fabricating and uniting layers that juxtapose
contrasting materials such as patent leather and silk. Each
piece demonstrating a complexity in its assembly and
most likely its disassembling.  This is achieved with
perhaps the most colourful palette produced by
Margiela, however in all its glorious colour it still maintains
the language revered by the house.

best of martin grant fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Whilst the Australian media were boasting Dinnigan's rise
in Paris during fashion week those loyal to fashion were
only too aware of who the real success is in Paris. Fear not
Martin Grant we have not forgotten your roots!
Grant presents a 70's inspired collection an inspiration that
seems to run through all of the Fall 2011 shows, however
Grant's response isn't a sea of snakeskn or croc. He takes
the approach of a subtle colour palette of burgundy, camel
and toffee brown and refrences the period with dramatic
floor length coats, long lapels, turtle necks and elastic waists.

best of marc jacobs for louis vuitton fall 2011 heels times three



images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

 When we thought we had seen enough patchwork of croc
and snakeskin Louis Vuitton arrive late on the scene with
their lace up heel with an exquisite collage of colour and
form that is utterly feminine, a typically Marc Jacobs shoe.

best of lanvin fall 2011 collection times three



images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

A dark and twisted collection for Alber Elbaz at Lanvin, it was
rhythmical and theatrical as each model seemed to represent
a Gothic character each with a very individual presence. There
is a variety of material from lace to leather to python to wool...
and even proportions vary from the voluminous to the structured
to the fitted to the draped- a broad yet cohesive collaboration
of ideas.

best of lanvin fall 2011 shoes times three



images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/



Alber Elbaz takes a keen interest in his metal hardware this
season using it to enhance and accentuate silhouettes of iconic
elements such as a handbag or in this case the wedge heel. His
incredible restrain this season to present elegant and minimalist
pieces is obvious in his execution of the shoe collection with its
elongated heels and dramatic ankle straps the heel becomes a
vivid form.

best of lanvin fall 2011 handbags times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Alber Elbaz's fall collection for Lanvin demonstrated incredible
restrain and refinement quite contrary to his previous fall
collection which was an explosion of embelishment of fur and
feathers. This season's handbags are uniquely timeless with it
austere shapes and metal trimmed hardware, the use of calf
hide and snakeskin enhances this restrained adornment.

best of issey miyake fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Issey Miyake's fall collection had an incredible educational
perfomance that involved transforming materials and creating
paper like garments , referencing origami techniques. But
instead of elaborating on the feature of the show I would rather
focus on the less obvious which was the practical wearable pieces
and the art behind them, Miyake attempts to explode and explore
traditional graphics of cheverons and herringbones and proceeds
to weave, pixelate and tape them. The colours and contrasts he
uses to express this technique dramatises its effect and makes
for unique wearable pieces.

best of hermes fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Christophe Lemaire's debut collection was a hommage
to the house of Hermes, some suggest it had an oriental
approach but I would suggest a universal approach. The
colours and materials are what always appeals from Hermes
and the typical details of leather piping and the use of
tweed and cashmere are all notorious to the house. Lemaire's
approach is incredibly different to Jean-Paul Gaultier's who
referenced the house original equestrian element and his own
agenda of a strong and dominating woman were Lemaire
accentuates this feminine universality.

best of hermes fall 2011 shoes times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Christophe Lemaire's debut collection for Hermes proved
promising the ready to wear took us back to the house's
original aesthetic of a universal woman but the shoes were
the dynamic element with their more contemporary approach.
Lemaire transforms the basic shoe into a new form, take for
example the simple peep toe shoe transformed by material or
large openings all methods of incredible restrain but for a
maximum effect.

best of haider ackermann fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Haider Ackermann has to be the most progressive designer
for this years fall collection as he presents a new dynamic and
a fresh conception for fashion. Ackermann  maintains a feminine
elegance with sophisticated tailoring and opulent materials. The
colours are dark and rich and the way the garments gather and
drape appears to be composed with much intention and restrain.
His collections will always be refreshing and his career is sure
to prosper as I predict he may become the new face for Dior
considering his design sensibility is most suited.

best of dries van noten fall 2011 prints times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Dries Van Noten fall collection doesn't fail to present the
unique and iconic prints that have become notorious to his
work, in keeping with the theme of the collection 'collage'
Dries composes and carefully coordinates strong geometric
prints in dramatic tones of indigo, coral, yellow and
mmonochromatic tones of black and white, a feast for the
eyes much like the shoes which are entirely different
composition of materials and textures, it is the maximalist
collection.

best of dries van noten fall 2011 coats times three

 

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Much like his fall 2011 menswear collection Dries
applies similar ideas of luxury and elegance to few
of his womens ready to wear coats- some of us will
recognise that fur lined lapel, he takes it a step further
in the womens by using brocade and tweeds with fur.

best of dries van noten fall 2011 shoes times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Patchwork on shoes is rarely executed on the runway
however dries daringly combines a range of materials
perspex, patent leather and snakeskin to create a visual
compilation and then teams it with a striking black and
white graphic beneath. An unthinkable synthesis of
materials.

best of dries van noten fall 2011 ankle boots times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

The plexi heel has been done before as we know, most
recently by Prada, Burberry, Marc  Jacobs and Charlotte
Olympia- However none have used it in a flat profile nor
in such a unique shape. Dries Van Noten accentuates the
plexi by contrasting it with dramatic materials and colours
the velvet is the most extraordinary combination.

best of dries van noten fall 2011 bags times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

If I had to describe Dries Van Noten's fall collection in
very few words it would be 'an extravagant collage of
patterns and textiles'- I think you would agree that the
bags for this collection fit that description, the very
precisely collaged leathers and furs composing a unique
accessory.

best of costume national fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Ennio Capasa's collection for Costume National is notably
colourful and futuristic where he utilizes materials such
as neo-prene to accent proportions and volumes and
techniques for fusing materials together such as thermo
welding. The contrast and heavy blocking used in the
show dramatizes the coloured pieces and their
shapes.

best of comme des garcon fall 2011 shoes times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Rei Kawakubo's shoes for this collection are in theme
with the entire collection where there is a crossbreed of
half man half woman- here she takes a typical mans shoe
or loafer and transforms it with distinctive iconic feminine
footwear details such as the bow or a ballet shoe outline
or simply cutting the shoe halfway down the middle.
Such a strong execution of a simple concept.

best of comme des garcon fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Rei Kawakubo fall collection for comme des garcon
was a feast for the eyes- it is exquisitely excessive. While
most of the pieces are unwearable it is impossible not
to appreciate the technique and skill that has been
poured into these elaborate pieces, what more can one
say?

best of john galliano for christian dior fall 2011 boots times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Despite all the controversy surrounding the talented John
Galliano's departure or shall I say dismissal, Galliano still
manages to deliver another brilliant collection. The boots
are always an iconic piece to the Dior fall collection with
their endless heel and towering platform, this season
Galliano accents and details the boot with the material of
choice this season... snakeskin!

best of chloe fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Ahh the luxury of leather, and who better to work with
leather than chloe with their simple bohemian 70's signature
look. There was the traditional full pant teamed with coloured
knits, the most interesting piece however goes to the black
leather jumpsuit.... daringly conceived.

best of chloe fall 2011 shoes times three



images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/



I know what you are thinking! Surely these are not all
from the same collection- I can assure you they are,
surprisingly unlike previous Chloe collections Hannah
Mcgibbon presents what is perhaps the most diverse
collection for the house with such a variety of
aesthetics and materials such as denims to snakeskin,
to leather to colourful wools. The shoes are just a
demonstration of this diversity but then strangely they
compliment most of the collection.

best of chloe fall 2011 bags times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Whilst snakeskin seems to be the key material for leatherwear
this season I still find it difficult to appreciate it on mass or as
a print- however Hannah McGibbon is the only designer this
season whom seems to have the ability to sway this opinion
with her revival of patchwork that is geometrically refined and
colours carefully balanced together it is perhaps the only
snakeskin you will see on this lady.

best of chanel fall 2011 jumpsuits times three



images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

 Karl Lagerfield's fall collection for Chanel was a dark
yet tenuous collection the key pieces from the collection
was the jumpsuit in all its incredible variations from the
signature chanel quilting to a heavy wool with a large
expressed collar and then lace with leather. A unique
figuration for the Chanel woman.

best of pheobe philo for celine fall 2011 collection times three



images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/


The fall Celine shoe is a clever compositional contrast of
patent leather with a velvet like suede- in tones that
compliment the other. The form of the shoe is rather
sculptural particularly the way it moulds around the
arch of the foot and sweeps down to reveal the profile.

best of pheobe philo for celine fall 2011 collection details times three



images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/



Who can not go past these exquisite details by Pheobe
Philo for Celine- the expressed leather besides the plisse
silk is a clever way to make more of what could have been
a dull silk tunic, and then ofcourse the wood grain silk print
which has been run horizontally and vertically in panels is
such an ethereal piece unlike the dominating strong and
modern aesthetic to the collection.

best of pheobe philo for celine fall 2011 coats times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Philo's collection for Celine is modern and progressive with
such high demand for her previous collections this season's
coat will be a necessity for the Celine woman- they are
ofcourse simple and understated with fine details from a
slim lapel to slight A-line cuts, the standout coat however
is the punchy yellow coat which appears to be a reoccuring
piece amongst the fall 2011 shows.

best of pheobe philo for celine fall 2011 bags times three



images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/



Pheobe Philo's collection for Celine exempifies the modern
woman, with unique leather wear in rigid figures, some
referencing traditional handbags and some a new concept,
particularly the rectalinear carry case.

best of cacharel fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Cedric Charlier creates an explosion of retro flowers
elegantly silhouetted on a camel background. The
print is not like anything I have ever seen with black
outlined sketches and accents of colour, the garments
themselves work well in dramatizing the print as they are
simple and unadorned, layered ontop of matching pants
and skirts.

best of balenciaga fall 2011 collection times three



images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/



Nicolas Ghesquiere's fall collection for balenciaga was
dramatic in its proportions and volumes, with subtle
contrasts  on lapelles, shoulders and knees. The volumes
are signifcant in Cristobal's original aesthetics and are
to me the success fo this collection as unlike Cristobal
Ghesquiere has furthered it with techniques such as
quilting and weaving.

best of balenciaga fall 2011 shoes times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Nicolas Ghesquiere's fall collection heels are very much
a statement piece similar to all his previous collections the
heels are integral to the look. These heels again play with
amplifying and texture, he draws attention to the material
by the multiple straps moving up the arch of the foot he
then contrasts the ankle strap. The shape I find is quite
unique for Ghesquiere as his previous shoes have been
androgynous with ideas of mens shoes mixed womens,
this however is elegantly feminine with its fine heel and
elongated almond toe.

best of balenciaga fall 2011 bags times three



images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/



Nicolas Ghesquiere's fall collection for balenciaga focused
on texture and proportion in an attempt to dramatize and
amplify the affect of texture, the bags succeeded in this
intent with dramatic weaves and layering of materials.

best of sarah burton for alexander mcqueen fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Since Sarah Burton's appointment as creative director
at mcqueen she has maintained the legacy, aesthetic
and extrodinary craftsmanship which gave fame to the
house. These garments conceptually appear to be
segmented and reassembed contrasting the soft textures
with defined shapes, all composed with organzas, furs,
silks and wools all within a single garment.

best of akris fall 2011 collection times three



images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/


So apologies to my readers for the delayed update of Paris
Fashion Week, I am still digesting all the amazing collections
for what is universally the most spectacular week of the year
in fashion. So what collection shall one start Paris fashion week
assessing? I can't decide either so I have chosen to run them
in alphabetical order, so here we are with Akris. This
minimalist collection is incredibly striking with warm tones of
yellow, burgundy and taupe, all accented with luxurious
materials such as leathers, suedes and cashmere.The execution
of contrasting and two-tones are cleverly composed.

best of marni fall 2011 collection shoes times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

The most covetable shoes are often Marni's distinct designs
this season of course is no exception. Castiglioni's presents
us with the mary-jane platform and wedge,  as always
beautifully and carefully detailed with exposed stitching,
contrasting tones and mixture of perforated leather or
snakeskin a harmony of textures and tones!