best of ellery fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.elleryland.com/

Ellery's current fall collection has a sophisticated sculpted
treatment on her delicately embellished garments. They are
minimal yet with subtly detailed, a progressive collection for
the young designer.

best of karla spetic spring summer 2012 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.vogue.com.au/

Karla Spetic explores art nouveau motifs and patterns
in her new collection with bold and exciting pastel hues
in sixties influenced collection. The palette and graphic are
elegantly composed and remind me of textiles produced
by Florence Broadhurst.

best of kirrily johnston spring summer 2012 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.vogue.com.au/

Kirrily Johnston's spring collection was consistent and
restrained, her minimalist approach continues to produce
new and innovative pieces - here she executes delicate
tonal contrasts draped in silk that are utterly feminine but then
creates pieces with an approach that is very much the opposite
with masculine and bold structures using leather.

best of josh goot spring summer 2012 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.vogue.com.au/

Perhaps internationally one of the most talked about collections,
Josh Goot's collection was compelling, a modern and very
directional collection. Goot explores bold splashes of graphic,
saturated colours and structure on a white canvas that provides
a dramatic contrast. There are too many things to love in this
collection from the proportions and volumes of the skirt to the
neoprene tops and well ofcourse those candy striped heels on
the open toe pastel boots.

best of gary bigeni spring summer 2012 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.vogue.com.au/

Gary Bigeni's collection was infused with an array
of colour but what caught my attention were the
burnt orange pieces assembled together with tan
leather and a more neutral palette- they demonstrated
a more sophisticated and refined palette approach.
This collection would have to be one of his best interms
of direction and evolution.

best of dion lee spring summer 2012 collection times three



images courtesy of http://www.vogue.com.au/

Since Dion Lee's debut his minimalist approach has remained
consistent amongst all his collections, this collection however
has a more sculptural approach rather than his traditional
modernist tailoring that has become a given in all his works.
I would have appreciated the collection in its entirety if there
was a more in depth exploration of the sculpted and three
dimensional approach consistently applied to most of the
pieces.

best of dhini spring summer 2012 collection times three



images courtesy of http://www.vogue.com.au/

Dhini's spring summer collection in my opinion has a
new approach in comparison to her previous collections-
instead of the structured and heavily tailored pieces she
takes on a more delicate and soft composition for her
garments in this collection, with bursts of colour that are
refreshingly tasteful.

best of acrobats of god spring summer 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of www.acrobatsofgod.blogspot.com/

Nicole Brundage's Acrobats of God spring/summer
2011 collection is a true demonstration of her talent
and invaluable experience in design. Her acrobats
of god range maximises the permutations of elastic
on her uppers- it becomes a playful exploration of
weaving and colour mixing to assemble these
innovative pieces, I only regret not purchasing from
her earlier collections with wood and elastane

best of spring summer 2011 ad campaigns times three

times one: prada campaign photographed by steven meisel
times two: jil sander campaign photographed by willy vanderperre
times three: lanvin campaign photographed by steven meisel

best of stefano pilati for yves saint laurent fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Pilati's collection brought back the essence of what was
Yves Saint Laurent with a meticulously elegant collection.
The printed pieces is what caught my eye with the prince
of wales checks and the pixelated electric blue graphic in
simple knee high coats or dresses that were quite visually
dramatic.

best of stefano pilati for yves saint laurent fall 2011 shoes times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and www.gorunway.com

Pilati's fall collection for Yves Saint Laurent was simple
and refined- with the exception of the shoes which
were boundlessly embellished and sculpted, in my
opinion the designs represented an art deco and almost
80's influence. Perhaps a little surprising coming from
Stefano.

best of vivienne westwood fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and www.gorunway.com

Vivienne brings to us these twisted characters for her fall
collection- each look represents a character from Westwood's
wild imagination- some masculine, some ornately feminine, some
refined well the list goes on. Westwood's palette of materials,
patterns and colour continue to remain consistent and practical.

best of viktor and rolf fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Viktor and Rolf's fall collection placed emphasis on armours and
structured forms- these pieces in particular leave me speechless. They
almost remind me of an Ernst Haeckel sketch, they are organic but quite
rigidly sculptured at the same time. A visual feast quite realistically - it
should be displayed in a gallery

best of vanessa bruno fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and www.gorunway.com

Vanessa Bruno's fall collection had a Russian influence with
her floor drapping coats with tones of browns, musk and blue
with bold details of stripes or a central graphic or fur lapels. The
head scarves gave the collection a peasant aesthetic restrained and
austere without to much attention drawn to a singular piece.

best of undercover fall 2011 collection times three



images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/


Jun Takahashi's fall 2011 collection for undercover was
simple and understated with refined panelling applied to
knitwear and zipper attachments used to define forms.
The focus was on heavy knitwear and velvets - a
luxurious winter range.

best of tsumori chisato fall 2011 collection times three



images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

 Tsumori Chisato's fall collection was filled with the usual
colourful and eclectic aesthetic that remains her signature.
The pieces that resonate with me are the autumn hue
pieces striped, textured and patchworked to create
a complexity of layers you would never imagine putting
together- her work is like a collage that shes seems to
artistically compose each season.

best of stella mccartney fall 2011 collection times three



images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

 What remains iconic to this collection for me is the
accentuation of the curvaceous hourglass proportions
from the arms to the hips, McCartney texturizes these
minimal crew neck pieces with reflective gold, fine
pleats and leather. It represents a progressive and
futuristic approach to her tailoring unlike her other
collections.

best of stella mccartney fall 2011 bag collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ an www.gorunway.com

Stella McCartney's fall collection of bags is simple and
bold- the plexi glass or perspex clutch is not an innovative
piece as previously explored by Fendi, Mcqueen, or
Charlotte Olympia, however the innovative approach of this
purse lies in its form as previous designers attempt to
maintain the typical appearance of a purse McCartney
chooses to instead use pure forms of prisms and cylinders
without trying to appear to be a bag.

best of sonia rykiel fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

A Sonia Rykiel collection never fails to excite me, the way
the looks are composed and layered are so clever and
practical- this collection we see Rykiel mix miltary cuts with
English argyle and tartans prints, the colours palette is always
refreshing with tones of khaki, indigo, taupe and toffee browns
a 70's revival of colours.

best of marco zanini for rochas fall 2011 collection times three



images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/



Marco Zanini's fall 2011 collection for Rochas transported
me  back to the 60's to designs from the likes of Pierre
Cardin or Cristobal Balenciaga- particularly the coats in
their proportions and volumes and most of all the hats, it
wasn't only the coats that demonstrated a 60's influence but
the shift dresses and A-line skirts.

best of rick owens fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Rick Owens fall collection for 2011 would have to be for me
my favourite of all of his collections with such a glamorously
austere aesthetic with floor draping capes and a subtle palette
of grey, taupe and browns that unite in harmonious outfits. His
details are almost architectural with the keyed in leather
patchwork and heavy single pleats. A practical and wearable
collection from Owens.

best of rick owens boots fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and www.gorunway.com

Rick Owens statement shoes are always are key element
to his collections these wedge boots are dramatic with
its towering uninterrupted wedge platform with gathered
fronts- Owens uses leather in a unique way sculpturing
these unique forms.

best of neil barrett fall 2011 collection times three



images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/




Neil Barrett's masculine coats for fall 2011 are an elegantly
tailored range of coats with sharp angular lapels and flattering
lengths. The details are restrained and refined with the only
embelishment and extravagance being the fur trims- a bold
coat for the winter.

best of thierry mugler fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of style.com and www.gorunway.com

Nicola Formichetti's debut for Mugler was nothing less
than theatrical and dramatic, it maintained the futuristic
vision that gave Mugler his name. The designs were
slim lined and often reflective with a longlined coat
or blazer- incredibly minimal with maximum effect. Almost
a parallel aesthetic to some of Mcqueen's work. A
refreshing comeback and reinvention for the industry.

best of maison martin margiela fall 2011 collection times three



images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Martin Margiela's fall collection focuses on the dress
and explores a progressive construction of the typical
piece by fabricating and uniting layers that juxtapose
contrasting materials such as patent leather and silk. Each
piece demonstrating a complexity in its assembly and
most likely its disassembling.  This is achieved with
perhaps the most colourful palette produced by
Margiela, however in all its glorious colour it still maintains
the language revered by the house.

best of martin grant fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Whilst the Australian media were boasting Dinnigan's rise
in Paris during fashion week those loyal to fashion were
only too aware of who the real success is in Paris. Fear not
Martin Grant we have not forgotten your roots!
Grant presents a 70's inspired collection an inspiration that
seems to run through all of the Fall 2011 shows, however
Grant's response isn't a sea of snakeskn or croc. He takes
the approach of a subtle colour palette of burgundy, camel
and toffee brown and refrences the period with dramatic
floor length coats, long lapels, turtle necks and elastic waists.

best of marc jacobs for louis vuitton fall 2011 heels times three



images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

 When we thought we had seen enough patchwork of croc
and snakeskin Louis Vuitton arrive late on the scene with
their lace up heel with an exquisite collage of colour and
form that is utterly feminine, a typically Marc Jacobs shoe.

best of lanvin fall 2011 collection times three



images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

A dark and twisted collection for Alber Elbaz at Lanvin, it was
rhythmical and theatrical as each model seemed to represent
a Gothic character each with a very individual presence. There
is a variety of material from lace to leather to python to wool...
and even proportions vary from the voluminous to the structured
to the fitted to the draped- a broad yet cohesive collaboration
of ideas.

best of lanvin fall 2011 shoes times three



images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/



Alber Elbaz takes a keen interest in his metal hardware this
season using it to enhance and accentuate silhouettes of iconic
elements such as a handbag or in this case the wedge heel. His
incredible restrain this season to present elegant and minimalist
pieces is obvious in his execution of the shoe collection with its
elongated heels and dramatic ankle straps the heel becomes a
vivid form.

best of lanvin fall 2011 handbags times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Alber Elbaz's fall collection for Lanvin demonstrated incredible
restrain and refinement quite contrary to his previous fall
collection which was an explosion of embelishment of fur and
feathers. This season's handbags are uniquely timeless with it
austere shapes and metal trimmed hardware, the use of calf
hide and snakeskin enhances this restrained adornment.

best of issey miyake fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Issey Miyake's fall collection had an incredible educational
perfomance that involved transforming materials and creating
paper like garments , referencing origami techniques. But
instead of elaborating on the feature of the show I would rather
focus on the less obvious which was the practical wearable pieces
and the art behind them, Miyake attempts to explode and explore
traditional graphics of cheverons and herringbones and proceeds
to weave, pixelate and tape them. The colours and contrasts he
uses to express this technique dramatises its effect and makes
for unique wearable pieces.

best of hermes fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Christophe Lemaire's debut collection was a hommage
to the house of Hermes, some suggest it had an oriental
approach but I would suggest a universal approach. The
colours and materials are what always appeals from Hermes
and the typical details of leather piping and the use of
tweed and cashmere are all notorious to the house. Lemaire's
approach is incredibly different to Jean-Paul Gaultier's who
referenced the house original equestrian element and his own
agenda of a strong and dominating woman were Lemaire
accentuates this feminine universality.

best of hermes fall 2011 shoes times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Christophe Lemaire's debut collection for Hermes proved
promising the ready to wear took us back to the house's
original aesthetic of a universal woman but the shoes were
the dynamic element with their more contemporary approach.
Lemaire transforms the basic shoe into a new form, take for
example the simple peep toe shoe transformed by material or
large openings all methods of incredible restrain but for a
maximum effect.

best of haider ackermann fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Haider Ackermann has to be the most progressive designer
for this years fall collection as he presents a new dynamic and
a fresh conception for fashion. Ackermann  maintains a feminine
elegance with sophisticated tailoring and opulent materials. The
colours are dark and rich and the way the garments gather and
drape appears to be composed with much intention and restrain.
His collections will always be refreshing and his career is sure
to prosper as I predict he may become the new face for Dior
considering his design sensibility is most suited.

best of dries van noten fall 2011 prints times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Dries Van Noten fall collection doesn't fail to present the
unique and iconic prints that have become notorious to his
work, in keeping with the theme of the collection 'collage'
Dries composes and carefully coordinates strong geometric
prints in dramatic tones of indigo, coral, yellow and
mmonochromatic tones of black and white, a feast for the
eyes much like the shoes which are entirely different
composition of materials and textures, it is the maximalist
collection.

best of dries van noten fall 2011 coats times three

 

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Much like his fall 2011 menswear collection Dries
applies similar ideas of luxury and elegance to few
of his womens ready to wear coats- some of us will
recognise that fur lined lapel, he takes it a step further
in the womens by using brocade and tweeds with fur.

best of dries van noten fall 2011 shoes times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Patchwork on shoes is rarely executed on the runway
however dries daringly combines a range of materials
perspex, patent leather and snakeskin to create a visual
compilation and then teams it with a striking black and
white graphic beneath. An unthinkable synthesis of
materials.

best of dries van noten fall 2011 ankle boots times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

The plexi heel has been done before as we know, most
recently by Prada, Burberry, Marc  Jacobs and Charlotte
Olympia- However none have used it in a flat profile nor
in such a unique shape. Dries Van Noten accentuates the
plexi by contrasting it with dramatic materials and colours
the velvet is the most extraordinary combination.

best of dries van noten fall 2011 bags times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

If I had to describe Dries Van Noten's fall collection in
very few words it would be 'an extravagant collage of
patterns and textiles'- I think you would agree that the
bags for this collection fit that description, the very
precisely collaged leathers and furs composing a unique
accessory.

best of costume national fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Ennio Capasa's collection for Costume National is notably
colourful and futuristic where he utilizes materials such
as neo-prene to accent proportions and volumes and
techniques for fusing materials together such as thermo
welding. The contrast and heavy blocking used in the
show dramatizes the coloured pieces and their
shapes.

best of comme des garcon fall 2011 shoes times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Rei Kawakubo's shoes for this collection are in theme
with the entire collection where there is a crossbreed of
half man half woman- here she takes a typical mans shoe
or loafer and transforms it with distinctive iconic feminine
footwear details such as the bow or a ballet shoe outline
or simply cutting the shoe halfway down the middle.
Such a strong execution of a simple concept.

best of comme des garcon fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Rei Kawakubo fall collection for comme des garcon
was a feast for the eyes- it is exquisitely excessive. While
most of the pieces are unwearable it is impossible not
to appreciate the technique and skill that has been
poured into these elaborate pieces, what more can one
say?

best of john galliano for christian dior fall 2011 boots times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Despite all the controversy surrounding the talented John
Galliano's departure or shall I say dismissal, Galliano still
manages to deliver another brilliant collection. The boots
are always an iconic piece to the Dior fall collection with
their endless heel and towering platform, this season
Galliano accents and details the boot with the material of
choice this season... snakeskin!

best of chloe fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Ahh the luxury of leather, and who better to work with
leather than chloe with their simple bohemian 70's signature
look. There was the traditional full pant teamed with coloured
knits, the most interesting piece however goes to the black
leather jumpsuit.... daringly conceived.

best of chloe fall 2011 shoes times three



images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/



I know what you are thinking! Surely these are not all
from the same collection- I can assure you they are,
surprisingly unlike previous Chloe collections Hannah
Mcgibbon presents what is perhaps the most diverse
collection for the house with such a variety of
aesthetics and materials such as denims to snakeskin,
to leather to colourful wools. The shoes are just a
demonstration of this diversity but then strangely they
compliment most of the collection.

best of chloe fall 2011 bags times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Whilst snakeskin seems to be the key material for leatherwear
this season I still find it difficult to appreciate it on mass or as
a print- however Hannah McGibbon is the only designer this
season whom seems to have the ability to sway this opinion
with her revival of patchwork that is geometrically refined and
colours carefully balanced together it is perhaps the only
snakeskin you will see on this lady.

best of chanel fall 2011 jumpsuits times three



images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

 Karl Lagerfield's fall collection for Chanel was a dark
yet tenuous collection the key pieces from the collection
was the jumpsuit in all its incredible variations from the
signature chanel quilting to a heavy wool with a large
expressed collar and then lace with leather. A unique
figuration for the Chanel woman.

best of pheobe philo for celine fall 2011 collection times three



images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/


The fall Celine shoe is a clever compositional contrast of
patent leather with a velvet like suede- in tones that
compliment the other. The form of the shoe is rather
sculptural particularly the way it moulds around the
arch of the foot and sweeps down to reveal the profile.

best of pheobe philo for celine fall 2011 collection details times three



images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/



Who can not go past these exquisite details by Pheobe
Philo for Celine- the expressed leather besides the plisse
silk is a clever way to make more of what could have been
a dull silk tunic, and then ofcourse the wood grain silk print
which has been run horizontally and vertically in panels is
such an ethereal piece unlike the dominating strong and
modern aesthetic to the collection.

best of pheobe philo for celine fall 2011 coats times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Philo's collection for Celine is modern and progressive with
such high demand for her previous collections this season's
coat will be a necessity for the Celine woman- they are
ofcourse simple and understated with fine details from a
slim lapel to slight A-line cuts, the standout coat however
is the punchy yellow coat which appears to be a reoccuring
piece amongst the fall 2011 shows.