Sunday, April 24, 2011

best of thierry mugler fall 2011 collection times three

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Nicola Formichetti's debut for Mugler was nothing less
than theatrical and dramatic, it maintained the futuristic
vision that gave Mugler his name. The designs were
slim lined and often reflective with a longlined coat
or blazer- incredibly minimal with maximum effect. Almost
a parallel aesthetic to some of Mcqueen's work. A
refreshing comeback and reinvention for the industry.

Saturday, April 23, 2011

best of maison martin margiela fall 2011 collection times three

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Martin Margiela's fall collection focuses on the dress
and explores a progressive construction of the typical
piece by fabricating and uniting layers that juxtapose
contrasting materials such as patent leather and silk. Each
piece demonstrating a complexity in its assembly and
most likely its disassembling.  This is achieved with
perhaps the most colourful palette produced by
Margiela, however in all its glorious colour it still maintains
the language revered by the house.

Friday, April 22, 2011

best of martin grant fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of and
Whilst the Australian media were boasting Dinnigan's rise
in Paris during fashion week those loyal to fashion were
only too aware of who the real success is in Paris. Fear not
Martin Grant we have not forgotten your roots!
Grant presents a 70's inspired collection an inspiration that
seems to run through all of the Fall 2011 shows, however
Grant's response isn't a sea of snakeskn or croc. He takes
the approach of a subtle colour palette of burgundy, camel
and toffee brown and refrences the period with dramatic
floor length coats, long lapels, turtle necks and elastic waists.

Thursday, April 21, 2011

best of marc jacobs for louis vuitton fall 2011 heels times three

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 When we thought we had seen enough patchwork of croc
and snakeskin Louis Vuitton arrive late on the scene with
their lace up heel with an exquisite collage of colour and
form that is utterly feminine, a typically Marc Jacobs shoe.

Wednesday, April 20, 2011

best of lanvin fall 2011 collection times three

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A dark and twisted collection for Alber Elbaz at Lanvin, it was
rhythmical and theatrical as each model seemed to represent
a Gothic character each with a very individual presence. There
is a variety of material from lace to leather to python to wool...
and even proportions vary from the voluminous to the structured
to the fitted to the draped- a broad yet cohesive collaboration
of ideas.

Tuesday, April 19, 2011

best of lanvin fall 2011 shoes times three

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Alber Elbaz takes a keen interest in his metal hardware this
season using it to enhance and accentuate silhouettes of iconic
elements such as a handbag or in this case the wedge heel. His
incredible restrain this season to present elegant and minimalist
pieces is obvious in his execution of the shoe collection with its
elongated heels and dramatic ankle straps the heel becomes a
vivid form.

Monday, April 18, 2011

best of lanvin fall 2011 handbags times three

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Alber Elbaz's fall collection for Lanvin demonstrated incredible
restrain and refinement quite contrary to his previous fall
collection which was an explosion of embelishment of fur and
feathers. This season's handbags are uniquely timeless with it
austere shapes and metal trimmed hardware, the use of calf
hide and snakeskin enhances this restrained adornment.

Friday, April 8, 2011

best of issey miyake fall 2011 collection times three

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Issey Miyake's fall collection had an incredible educational
perfomance that involved transforming materials and creating
paper like garments , referencing origami techniques. But
instead of elaborating on the feature of the show I would rather
focus on the less obvious which was the practical wearable pieces
and the art behind them, Miyake attempts to explode and explore
traditional graphics of cheverons and herringbones and proceeds
to weave, pixelate and tape them. The colours and contrasts he
uses to express this technique dramatises its effect and makes
for unique wearable pieces.

Thursday, April 7, 2011

best of hermes fall 2011 collection times three

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Christophe Lemaire's debut collection was a hommage
to the house of Hermes, some suggest it had an oriental
approach but I would suggest a universal approach. The
colours and materials are what always appeals from Hermes
and the typical details of leather piping and the use of
tweed and cashmere are all notorious to the house. Lemaire's
approach is incredibly different to Jean-Paul Gaultier's who
referenced the house original equestrian element and his own
agenda of a strong and dominating woman were Lemaire
accentuates this feminine universality.

Wednesday, April 6, 2011

best of hermes fall 2011 shoes times three

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Christophe Lemaire's debut collection for Hermes proved
promising the ready to wear took us back to the house's
original aesthetic of a universal woman but the shoes were
the dynamic element with their more contemporary approach.
Lemaire transforms the basic shoe into a new form, take for
example the simple peep toe shoe transformed by material or
large openings all methods of incredible restrain but for a
maximum effect.

Sunday, April 3, 2011

best of haider ackermann fall 2011 collection times three

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Haider Ackermann has to be the most progressive designer
for this years fall collection as he presents a new dynamic and
a fresh conception for fashion. Ackermann  maintains a feminine
elegance with sophisticated tailoring and opulent materials. The
colours are dark and rich and the way the garments gather and
drape appears to be composed with much intention and restrain.
His collections will always be refreshing and his career is sure
to prosper as I predict he may become the new face for Dior
considering his design sensibility is most suited.