best of dries van noten fall 2011 prints times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Dries Van Noten fall collection doesn't fail to present the
unique and iconic prints that have become notorious to his
work, in keeping with the theme of the collection 'collage'
Dries composes and carefully coordinates strong geometric
prints in dramatic tones of indigo, coral, yellow and
mmonochromatic tones of black and white, a feast for the
eyes much like the shoes which are entirely different
composition of materials and textures, it is the maximalist
collection.

best of dries van noten fall 2011 coats times three

 

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Much like his fall 2011 menswear collection Dries
applies similar ideas of luxury and elegance to few
of his womens ready to wear coats- some of us will
recognise that fur lined lapel, he takes it a step further
in the womens by using brocade and tweeds with fur.

best of dries van noten fall 2011 shoes times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Patchwork on shoes is rarely executed on the runway
however dries daringly combines a range of materials
perspex, patent leather and snakeskin to create a visual
compilation and then teams it with a striking black and
white graphic beneath. An unthinkable synthesis of
materials.

best of dries van noten fall 2011 ankle boots times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

The plexi heel has been done before as we know, most
recently by Prada, Burberry, Marc  Jacobs and Charlotte
Olympia- However none have used it in a flat profile nor
in such a unique shape. Dries Van Noten accentuates the
plexi by contrasting it with dramatic materials and colours
the velvet is the most extraordinary combination.

best of dries van noten fall 2011 bags times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

If I had to describe Dries Van Noten's fall collection in
very few words it would be 'an extravagant collage of
patterns and textiles'- I think you would agree that the
bags for this collection fit that description, the very
precisely collaged leathers and furs composing a unique
accessory.

best of costume national fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Ennio Capasa's collection for Costume National is notably
colourful and futuristic where he utilizes materials such
as neo-prene to accent proportions and volumes and
techniques for fusing materials together such as thermo
welding. The contrast and heavy blocking used in the
show dramatizes the coloured pieces and their
shapes.

best of comme des garcon fall 2011 shoes times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Rei Kawakubo's shoes for this collection are in theme
with the entire collection where there is a crossbreed of
half man half woman- here she takes a typical mans shoe
or loafer and transforms it with distinctive iconic feminine
footwear details such as the bow or a ballet shoe outline
or simply cutting the shoe halfway down the middle.
Such a strong execution of a simple concept.

best of comme des garcon fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Rei Kawakubo fall collection for comme des garcon
was a feast for the eyes- it is exquisitely excessive. While
most of the pieces are unwearable it is impossible not
to appreciate the technique and skill that has been
poured into these elaborate pieces, what more can one
say?

best of john galliano for christian dior fall 2011 boots times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Despite all the controversy surrounding the talented John
Galliano's departure or shall I say dismissal, Galliano still
manages to deliver another brilliant collection. The boots
are always an iconic piece to the Dior fall collection with
their endless heel and towering platform, this season
Galliano accents and details the boot with the material of
choice this season... snakeskin!

best of chloe fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Ahh the luxury of leather, and who better to work with
leather than chloe with their simple bohemian 70's signature
look. There was the traditional full pant teamed with coloured
knits, the most interesting piece however goes to the black
leather jumpsuit.... daringly conceived.

best of chloe fall 2011 shoes times three



images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/



I know what you are thinking! Surely these are not all
from the same collection- I can assure you they are,
surprisingly unlike previous Chloe collections Hannah
Mcgibbon presents what is perhaps the most diverse
collection for the house with such a variety of
aesthetics and materials such as denims to snakeskin,
to leather to colourful wools. The shoes are just a
demonstration of this diversity but then strangely they
compliment most of the collection.

best of chloe fall 2011 bags times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Whilst snakeskin seems to be the key material for leatherwear
this season I still find it difficult to appreciate it on mass or as
a print- however Hannah McGibbon is the only designer this
season whom seems to have the ability to sway this opinion
with her revival of patchwork that is geometrically refined and
colours carefully balanced together it is perhaps the only
snakeskin you will see on this lady.

best of chanel fall 2011 jumpsuits times three



images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

 Karl Lagerfield's fall collection for Chanel was a dark
yet tenuous collection the key pieces from the collection
was the jumpsuit in all its incredible variations from the
signature chanel quilting to a heavy wool with a large
expressed collar and then lace with leather. A unique
figuration for the Chanel woman.

best of pheobe philo for celine fall 2011 collection times three



images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/


The fall Celine shoe is a clever compositional contrast of
patent leather with a velvet like suede- in tones that
compliment the other. The form of the shoe is rather
sculptural particularly the way it moulds around the
arch of the foot and sweeps down to reveal the profile.

best of pheobe philo for celine fall 2011 collection details times three



images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/



Who can not go past these exquisite details by Pheobe
Philo for Celine- the expressed leather besides the plisse
silk is a clever way to make more of what could have been
a dull silk tunic, and then ofcourse the wood grain silk print
which has been run horizontally and vertically in panels is
such an ethereal piece unlike the dominating strong and
modern aesthetic to the collection.

best of pheobe philo for celine fall 2011 coats times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Philo's collection for Celine is modern and progressive with
such high demand for her previous collections this season's
coat will be a necessity for the Celine woman- they are
ofcourse simple and understated with fine details from a
slim lapel to slight A-line cuts, the standout coat however
is the punchy yellow coat which appears to be a reoccuring
piece amongst the fall 2011 shows.

best of pheobe philo for celine fall 2011 bags times three



images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/



Pheobe Philo's collection for Celine exempifies the modern
woman, with unique leather wear in rigid figures, some
referencing traditional handbags and some a new concept,
particularly the rectalinear carry case.

best of cacharel fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Cedric Charlier creates an explosion of retro flowers
elegantly silhouetted on a camel background. The
print is not like anything I have ever seen with black
outlined sketches and accents of colour, the garments
themselves work well in dramatizing the print as they are
simple and unadorned, layered ontop of matching pants
and skirts.

best of balenciaga fall 2011 collection times three



images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/



Nicolas Ghesquiere's fall collection for balenciaga was
dramatic in its proportions and volumes, with subtle
contrasts  on lapelles, shoulders and knees. The volumes
are signifcant in Cristobal's original aesthetics and are
to me the success fo this collection as unlike Cristobal
Ghesquiere has furthered it with techniques such as
quilting and weaving.

best of balenciaga fall 2011 shoes times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Nicolas Ghesquiere's fall collection heels are very much
a statement piece similar to all his previous collections the
heels are integral to the look. These heels again play with
amplifying and texture, he draws attention to the material
by the multiple straps moving up the arch of the foot he
then contrasts the ankle strap. The shape I find is quite
unique for Ghesquiere as his previous shoes have been
androgynous with ideas of mens shoes mixed womens,
this however is elegantly feminine with its fine heel and
elongated almond toe.

best of balenciaga fall 2011 bags times three



images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/



Nicolas Ghesquiere's fall collection for balenciaga focused
on texture and proportion in an attempt to dramatize and
amplify the affect of texture, the bags succeeded in this
intent with dramatic weaves and layering of materials.

best of sarah burton for alexander mcqueen fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Since Sarah Burton's appointment as creative director
at mcqueen she has maintained the legacy, aesthetic
and extrodinary craftsmanship which gave fame to the
house. These garments conceptually appear to be
segmented and reassembed contrasting the soft textures
with defined shapes, all composed with organzas, furs,
silks and wools all within a single garment.

best of akris fall 2011 collection times three



images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/


So apologies to my readers for the delayed update of Paris
Fashion Week, I am still digesting all the amazing collections
for what is universally the most spectacular week of the year
in fashion. So what collection shall one start Paris fashion week
assessing? I can't decide either so I have chosen to run them
in alphabetical order, so here we are with Akris. This
minimalist collection is incredibly striking with warm tones of
yellow, burgundy and taupe, all accented with luxurious
materials such as leathers, suedes and cashmere.The execution
of contrasting and two-tones are cleverly composed.

best of marni fall 2011 collection shoes times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

The most covetable shoes are often Marni's distinct designs
this season of course is no exception. Castiglioni's presents
us with the mary-jane platform and wedge,  as always
beautifully and carefully detailed with exposed stitching,
contrasting tones and mixture of perforated leather or
snakeskin a harmony of textures and tones!

best of marni fall 2011 collection necklaces times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

What I often love about a Marni collection is the
way in which the jewellery coordinates and becomes
an integral element that assists in defining the aesthetic
of the collection. In this collection we see the use of
pattern and geometry, Castiglioni also explores this in her
accessories by using cut crystalline forms and
traditional gems. These shapes are a perfect
compliment to the patterns and geometries in the
tessaltated patterns.

best of marni fall 2011 collection gloves times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Castiglioni's stand out accessory for this fall collection
was defintiely the two-toned gathered glove, where
we see the careful compostion of leather with furs
and wool in contrasting and complimenting tones. The
volume of the gathering surrounding the wrist is unique
and very flattering.

best of marni fall 2011 collection bags times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Marni's fall bags are suprisingly simple and austere with
a subtley minimal treatment of perforations that reference
back to the graphic and geometric play in the collection.
They exude elegance and simplicity which is quite contrary
for the traditional Marni bag.

best of marni fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

There is no doubting it that I am a loyal fan of Counselo
Castiglioni's Marni - it is a collection I often look forward
to, particularly the accesories. In this colleciton we saw
the exploration of  morrocan style tessalated patterns and
of course the gorgeous and vibrant colours to be expected
from Marni. Personally I am not a fan of fur and I know we
have seen alot of fur this season but I believe Marni has
executed this best, particularly the coat in the centre- the
colour block of the emerald green and soft brown is a clever
infusion of colour that is elegantly timeless.

best of michael kors fall 2011 shoes times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Michael Kors shoes for fall 2011 are sculpted around
the ankle with a solid silver platform and heel in a range
of monchromatic tones- a simple and understated design
that compliments the glamorous collection.

best of salvatore ferragamo fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Ferragamo's fall collection is a revival of the suit- but not
so traditional as these suits exude feminity with their
flattering cuts and plunging necklines. The collection
also makes reference to traditional suit textiles and patterns
such as the houndstooth, prince of wales checks, tweeds
and manipulates them by supersizing them or contrasting
them with hints of velvet detailing. A suprising collection
particularly in its monchromatic palette as I'm sure we all
expected a earthy ferragamo palette.

best of aquilino.rimondi fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Aquilano Rimondi's fall collection was reminiscient of
a 1960's aesthetic particularly the coats in their
proportions, simplicity and contrasting collars. In
keeping with the 60's inspiration they work with
grid lines in their dresses and embelishing them
carefully with luxurious fabric treatments.

best of brioni fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Alessandro Dell'Acqua's fall colleciton for Brioni has a
distinct design vocabulary in comparison to the other fall
collections dell'acqua matches tunics and pants in colour
and texture making quite distinctive and bold outfits with
an air of timeless elegance. I love the toffee croc top with
that small collar teamed with the matching toffee straight
leg pleated front pant.

best of etro fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Etro's fall 2011 collection fulfilled its standard array of patterns
and colours- however I was captivated by the bold minimalist
pieces which were quite unpredictable- the blue and toffee brown
are quite striking together along with the many other colour
combinations. A very 70's inspired selection of pieces.

best of gianfranco ferre fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Gianfranco ferre's fall collection is most notably masculine
and sculptural- with its suits, bold jackets and large folded
lapels it placed a strength and power into its woman. The
colours were also quite masculine and restrained. An
empowering display.

best of antonio marras fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Antonio Marras' concepts intrigue me, most particularly
the idea for the coats and jackets for this collection
where he has reworked mens jackets; detailing,
embelishing, retailoring, patching and completely restructuring.
It becomes a science experiment of dissection and careful
manipulation and study. Marras is worthy of much praise
for these distinguished pieces.

best of bally fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Graeme and Michael's first fall collection for bally focuses
on the house's key pieces; the shoe and the bag, the
clothes simply become an accessory to those pieces- a
philosophy I already follow in my own wardrobe. This
concept is well executed as the first thing the eye is drawn
to is the boots which are dramatised by the black long legs
and voluminous coats. I look forward to how the duo
progress and evolve at Bally.

best of albino fall 2011 collection times three



images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/



Albino's fall 2011 collection is austere and bold. The
coats are restrained, elegant with wonderful
proportions. You can never mistaken the skill and
precision of such minimal pieces, it can be compared
to designs of the likes of Jil Sander.

best of bottega veneta fall 2011 bags times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Bottega Veneta never seem to stray away from the
fine detailing and craftsmanship in their handbags-
of course this collection is no exception, what is
refereshing though is the fact that Maier has moved
away from the technique of weaving and explored
layering and stripes, he uses snakeskin quite
cleverly to develop a unique bag.

best of tomas maier for bottega veneta fall 2011 collection times three

images courtesy of http://www.style.com/ and http://www.gorunway.com/

Tomas Maier's fall collection for bottega veneta is
exquisitely feminine with its manipulation of lace into
a unique pattern layered under bold colours. The
concept was to create what Maier describes as
an image through a stained glass window, which he
succeeds so remarkably in achieving.